Tomo Koizumi’s international reputation was made in 2019 when Marc Jacobs hosted a presentation for him in New York. Gwendoline Christie, when she was still Brienne of Tarth and not yet a runway star, was a revelation in a showstopper of a multicolor floor length confection by the Japanese designer.

Today’s show at Dolce & Gabbana’s headquarters was the Milan sequel to that debut. Koizumi’s irrepressibility is a nice fit with that of his host designers. Such a nice fit that some of the early looks could’ve been mistaken for the fantastical pieces they make for their Alta Moda collections. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana not only loaned their headquarters for a show venue and the atelier space in which to prep for it, they also provided materials for some of the looks. The silk ribbon corsets that topped ombré satin twisted into Koizumi’s signature three-dimensional ruffles definitely seemed made in their honor.

“I called the collection Don’t Forget to Bring Your Flowers,” Koizumi said pre-show. “When I go to my friend’s homes, I bring flower bouquets as gifts, and this is my bouquet to the people in Milano. With the war and also after Covid I really want to bring joy to people.”