In the early 1900s, women’s tennis fashion was defined by strict dress codes and conservative styles–players were required to wear all white to conceal sweat and uphold a sense of propriety. Over the decades, however, the tennis court evolved into a platform for bold self expression, with athletes increasingly using fashion to challenge conventions and redefine what power dressing means in the sport. From Billie Jean King’s sparkling statements to Naomi Osaka’s fusion of athletic gear and subculture Japanese style, these outfits have become cultural milestones, showing how women use fashion as a powerful tool for self-expression and redefining what it means to dress like a champion.
1973: Billie Jean King’s Rhinestones
When Billie Jean King stepped onto the court during the historic ‘Battle of the Sexes’ in 1973, she wasn’t just facing Bobby Riggs, the self-proclaimed male chauvinist. King didn’t just win the match—she challenged male dominance in sports, making her statement one sequin at a time. Designed by British couturier Ted Tinling, her menthol-green and sky-blue dress was a masterclass in subversion, complete with hand-sewn rhinestones added just hours before the match to catch the harsh lights of the Astrodome.
King’s outfit transcended the sport: the V-neck silhouette and flared skirt married athleticism with audacity, while the rhinestone detailing signaled glamour in a sport that was still clinging to starch-white conservatism. Tinling, known for scandalising Wimbledon in 1949 with Gussie Moran’s lace trimmed panties, continued his legacy of rebellion with King’s dress, proving once again that tennis could be a stage for both athleticism and defiance. “I wanted to look strong, not pretty.” King later spoke–a mantra that redefined power dressing on and off the court.
1978: Chris Evert’s Diamond Bracelet
Fast forward to 1978: during Chris Evert’s US Open match, her diamond bracelet slipped off her wrist. Evert then prompted officials to halt the match while she searched for the precious piece on the court. When reporters asked about the incident afterwards, Evert casually referred to it as her “tennis bracelet”, and the term was born. This quickly entered the fashion lexicon and transformed the once-called “line bracelet” into an iconic accessory. From that moment, the tennis bracelet became synonymous with both luxury and active lifestyles.
“When I competed, I wanted to wear something that gave me confidence and empowered me, both as a woman and an athlete,” Evert later reflected. “My tennis bracelet added a personal element to my style on the court and served as a daily reminder that I can do and be anything.” What has previously been known as a diamond line or eternity bracelet became forever linked to the sport, transforming how women viewed athletic jewellery. Evert’s broader style philosophy was equally revolutionary: “I wore the pigtails with the ribbons, and I wore the ruffled on my bloomers, and I wore nail polish,” she recalled. “I mean I still wanted to be a teenage girl, but I still want to be this tough competitor on the court.” By balancing femininity and fierce athleticism, Evert paved the way for future generations of athletes to embrace their personal style unapologetically.
1985: Anne White’s Catsuit
Long before Serena Williams’ catsuit made waves, Anne White stunned Wimbledon in 1985 by unveiling an all-white Lycra bodysuit on Court 2. This sparked immediate controversy at the All England Club–arguably the most conservative tennis venue in the world. The skintight outfit, paired with leg warmers, drew intense media attention, turning her rain-delayed match against Pam Shriver into a major spectacle as photographers flocked courtside.
While White’s outfit adhered to Wimbledon’s all-white rule, it defied every other tradition of tennis attire. The 5’11” part-time model later admitted she knew exactly what she was doing: “I knew everybody was going to go nuts, I mean if I had played on Court 17 at 10 o’clock at night, maybe no one would have noticed. But playing on Court 2 against Pam, I knew people were going to notice”. With the match tied at one set all, play was suspended for bad light, and tournament referee Alan Mills delivered his verdict: “She won’t be allowed to wear it again.” White returned the next day in traditional tennis attire and lost the deciding set, but the damage–or revolution–was done. The British tabloids had a field day, with headlines cheekily declaring… “Anne is a bit of all white!”.
White’s prescient defense of her choice proved remarkably forward thinking: “I wore the outfit for fashion and function,” she explained. “I guess I was just ahead of my time. Swimmers wear similar outfits today to enhance performance and it’s my guess that in 50 years everyone will wear them at Wimbledon.” The following day, she returned to the court in traditional attire–a classic white tennis skirt–but her Lycra bodysuit had already made a lasting impact, sparking conversations about athletic performance and personal expression in women’s tennis fashion.
2004: Serena William’s Studded Black Dress
At the 2004 US Open, Serena Williams didn’t just dominate opponents—she redefined on-court style with a bold, biker inspired ensemble that remains one of her most iconic looks. Designed in collaboration with Nike, the outfit featured a silver studded black dress with a pleated skirt. The dress’s bodice was adorned with silver studs, creating a striking contrast against the sleek black fabric, while the flared pleated skirt allowed for unrestricted movement during play.
The pièce de résistance was the matching knee high gladiator style boots, a daring departure from traditional tennis footwear. Crafted by Nike designer Wilson Smith III, the boots featured a zip-off “spat” that transformed them into standard sneakers mid-match–-an innovation prioritising both drama and practicality. Williams completed the look with a studded leather jacket during warm-ups, with her name embellished in silver, highlighting the outfits rebellious spirit.
While some Nike executives criticized the boots as impractical for tennis, fans and fashion critics celebrated the look as groundbreaking. It epitomised Williams’ fearless approach to blending high-octant sportswear with streetwear influences. As she later reflected, “Fashion should empower, not distract”, proving that tennis attire could be as fierce and unapologetic as the athlete wearing it. Decades later, the look remains a benchmark for boldness in sports fashion, a testament to Serena’s enduring legacy as a trailblazer both on and off the court.
2007: Maria Sharapova’s Red Carpet Dress
Sharapova dazzled at the US Open in a fiery red Nike dress adorned with 600 Swarovski crystals forming a stylised New York skyline. Designed with Nike’s Colleen Sandieson, the dress featured bonded seams with no stitching for enhanced comfort and a flared silhouette that moved seamlessly with her game. At night, the crystals shimmered under Arthur Ashe Stadium lights, while the daytime iteration featured a black and white negative print of the skyline. Sharapova described it as a tribute to her “favourite city”, blending athletic functionality with red carpet drama. Paired with red-soled Nike sneakers and a $5,000 Tiffany & Co. platinum and diamond earrings, the look cemented her status as tennis’ fashion innovator.
2008: Maria Sharapova’s Tuxedo
When Maria Sharapova strutted onto Wimbledon’s grass in a Nike-designed “tuxedo” ensemble—a sheer, sleeveless tuxedo inspired top with a gold accented bib front and wide leg shorts, paired with a tailored blazer for pre-match theatrics. Sharapova, then 21, leaned into her love of menswear, stating, “I wanted to do something classy and elegant…If there’s a place to experiment, it’s Wimbledon”. The shorts–her first in a Grand Slam–boasted a wide waistband and pin-stripe detailing, while the modified racerback design prioritised mobility.
The look polarised critics and players alike. Her opponent, Alla Kudryavtseva, quipped, “It’s a little too much…but she’s brave enough to experiment.” Sharapova, ever the disruptor, leaned into menswear codes to challenge femininity’s narrow definitions. Despite the loss, the outfit became a cultural touchstone, challenging Wimbledon’s conservative norms and foreshadowing the rise of gender-fluid sportswear.
2018: Serena William’s Catsuit, Power in Black
Serena’s sleek black Nike catsuit with a striking red waistband became an instant icon in tennis fashion history. The form-fitting ensemble served dual purposes: a superhero-inspired fashion statement and a vital medical device. Engineered with zoned mesh for breathability and advanced compression technology, the catsuit was designed to enhance blood circulation and prevent life-threatening blood clots—a critical feature for Williams, who had faced severe postpartum complications after childbirth.
Williams drew inspiration from the blockbuster Black Panther film, even sharing, “I call it like my Wakanda-inspired catsuit…I feel like a warrior princess.” She dedicated the outfit to “all the moms out there who had a tough recovery from pregnancy,” transforming her return to tennis into an act of resilience.
Despite the catsuit’s critical medical function, French Tennis Federation President Bernard Giudicelli sparked international outrage by announcing the outfit would be banned from future French Open tournaments, stating, “One must respect the game and the place.” The decision drew widespread criticism, particularly from the tennis legend Billie Jean King, who argued that the “policing of women’s bodies must end.”
2024: Naomi Osaka’s Harajuku Bows:
Osaka’s green ensemble was a fusion of athletic wear with Japanese cultural elements, particularly drawing from Harajuku and Lolita fashion subcultures. The outfit was created through a collaboration between Nike and Japanese designer Yoon Ahn. Which features multiple layers, including a flouncy removable tulle tutu-style skirt for warm-ups and a white warm-up jacket with a tennis ball zipper and a massive green bow on the back. Even her Beats headphones were transformed into an elaborate “Lolita”-style headdress with pearls and bows, demonstrating attention to detail that extended to every accessory.
“When I step onto the court, I experience a transformative moment—it’s where I find my joy in playing. I want everyone who sees my outfit to connect with that powerful feeling,” Osaka revealed. This transformation concept draws inspiration from Japanese anime culture, specifically magical girl series like Sailor Moon, where characters undergo dramatic costume changes that mark their evolution into powerful alter egos. For Osaka, her tennis attire functions as a “super suit”—a symbol of empowerment that she hopes will influence women’s tennis broadly. Her vision encourages players to embrace their on-court clothing as an extension of their authentic identity and inner strength, transforming not just their appearance but their mindset when they compete.
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