The world of sunscreen can be complicated and confusing. From chemical versus mineral formulations to understanding SPF numbers, there’s a lot to consider when choosing the right sun protection.
Rita Silva, Science Communications Manager at DECIEM, brings years of expertise in demystifying skincare science. With a background in cosmetic science, she played a significant role in developing The Ordinary’s new UV Filters SPF 45 Serum, translating complex science into everyday consumer products. The brand’s latest innovation—a serum-textured sunscreen that blends seamlessly into all skin tones—shows just how far sun protection has evolved. Boasting a lightweight texture and broad-spectrum protection, the completely reformulated UV Filters SPF 45 Serum uses FDA-approved chemical filters to deliver broad-spectrum protection while addressing common sunscreen concerns, such as white cast and heavy texture.
“We had a clear goal: to create an SPF product that people not only need, but truly want to wear every single day,” Silva explains. “We had to carefully select UV filters that are FDA-approved and meet regulatory requirements in multiple countries, even if it meant we couldn’t explore some of the newer-generation filters that aren’t yet approved in all regions. Our focus was on creating a formula that is effective, stable, feels great on the skin, entirely transparent, comfortable, affordable, but most of all, without compromising on protection.”
Beyond its protective properties, the UV Filters SPF 45 Serum provides all-day hydration support, is non-comedogenic and offers a natural-looking glow that works well both alone and under makeup. Comprising 4 chemical filters, the formula achieves an SPF value of 45 and a UVAPF rating of PA++++, the highest rating of UVA protection a product can get.
Wondering what all this means? From understanding SPF numbers to debunking common myths, Silva shares her expert insights on everything you need to know about sun protection.
What is SPF?
SPF (Sun Protection Factor) measures how well a sunscreen protects against UVB rays, which are primarily responsible for sunburns. However, broad-spectrum protection, which guards against both UVA and UVB rays, is crucial for complete sun protection.
“UVA rays (think ‘A’ for ‘Ageing’) constitutes over 90% of UV radiation, causing oxidative stress and contributing to longer-term impacts on signs of skin ageing,” our expert explains. “They penetrate clouds and glass. UVB rays (think ‘B’ for ‘Burning’), on the other hand, are
more potent despite being a smaller percentage. UVB exposure is mostly responsible for causing sunburn, skin inflammation and pigmentation, which is more likely to cause direct DNA damage, increasing the risk of skin cancer.”
The Truth About SPF Numbers
When it comes to SPF numbers, higher isn’t always significantly better. Here’s a breakdown:
- SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays
- SPF 45 blocks about 97.8% of UVB rays
- SPF 50 blocks about 98% of UVB rays
“What’s important to understand is that the actual increase in UV protection becomes very small at higher SPF numbers.”
Chemical VS. Mineral Sunscreens: Which Is Better?
One common misconception in the skincare community is that “chemical” sunscreens are harmful. However, this stems from a fundamental misunderstanding of what a “chemical” truly is. “Mineral and chemical suncare both contain chemicals because everything is chemicals,” our expert emphasises. “Scientifically speaking, everything around us – from the water we drink to the air we breathe, and every single ingredient in our food and skincare – is composed of chemicals. The term ‘chemical’ doesn’t equate to ‘synthetic’ or ‘bad’.” What matters isn’t whether an ingredient is labelled as “chemical” or “mineral”, but whether it’s proven safe and effective for sun protection.
Formulating a truly transparent, lightweight, and affordable high-SPF mineral sunscreen is challenging, so a well-formulated chemical sunscreen might be a better choice for those who prefer something more breathable.
Are You Applying Your Sunscreen Wrong?
Many people make crucial mistakes when applying sunscreen. The most common include:
- Not applying enough product
- Missing spots like ears, neck, and hands
- Insufficient reapplication, especially after sweating or water activities
- Relying solely on moisturiser or makeup with SPF
- Not using other protection methods like protective clothing
How Much Sunscreen is Enough?
The proper amount of sunscreen is more than most people realize. “The SPF value on the packaging is achieved through a test where 2 mg of product are applied per 1 cm² of skin,” our expert reveals. While the two-finger rule (applying two finger-lengths worth of sunscreen on your face and neck) is popular, it’s not a consistent metric.
While layering skincare and makeup over sunscreen will affect its performance to some degree, it’s better to apply sunscreen on top of other products than not to apply it at all.
Debunking A Common Myth About SPF
Does wearing SPF significantly impact vitamin D production? Real-life testing reveals no significant correlation between SPF use and vitamin D deficiency. This is because some UV exposure still occurs through uneven application, missed areas, or insufficient reapplication.
Which Sunscreen Is The Best For Me?
A sunscreen that you will reach for every day: one that suits your skin type, addresses your skin concerns and has a pleasant texture that you will want to apply daily.
