Fermentation is an ancient process widely used in different cultures to preserve food, usually resulting in a funky flavour that is closer to acquired than innate taste. However, the global fermented food market has reached hundreds of billions in valuation as the benefits of probiotics are widely touted, along with boosted immunity and reduced risk of diseases. This month, we explore the fermentation of soybeans, fish, and dairy used in Cantonese, Vietnamese, and French cuisine, examining how three restaurants incorporate fermented food into their menus.
Ming Court
To the people of Hong Kong, Ming Court is a household name synonymous with refinement and heritage. Established in 2005, Ming Court has been under the expert care of Executive Chef Li Yuet Faat for over two decades. “The heart of good Cantonese cuisine lies in balance – flavour, texture, freshness, and technique must all work in harmony. It is important to showcase the natural taste of each ingredient without overwhelming it,” Chef Li notes. Preserving local food culture is particularly important to Chef Li as it “carries the memories and identity of the people”, which is why Ming Court actively sources from local farms and fisheries to bolster the local community.
When Chef Li’s collaborated with family-run local condiment business Yuet Wo, homegrown flavours were celebrated through the best craftsmanship. One of the few ‘made-in-Hong-Kong’ soy brands that remain, Yuet Wo employs natural sun-drying methods to ferment soybeans under the sun for six months at a time. Chef Li blended two types of Yuet Wo’s fermented bean paste — one with a deeper and more savoury profile, and one with slightly sweeter notes— to create the marinade of the silver cod. He carefully controlled the temperature and baking time of the cod, as fermented bean paste can easily become too strong or even bitter if overcooked at high temperatures. But baking allows the surface of the fish to slightly caramalise, intensifying the aroma of the fermented paste while rendering the fat of the cod, resulting in a tender texture and rich flavour. Chef Li paired the cod with his signature pomelo peel with shrimp roe, a classic Cantonese dish. Dedication is key to delicacy as Chef Li blanched and pressed the peel multiple times to remove bitterness, before braising the peel in a light dace fish broth and rich abalone sauce to achieve a soft and tender texture. His refined techniques bring out the balance of flavours, as he so emphasises, harmonising the citrus of the peel, depth of the broth, fragrance of the shrimp roe and the luxurious umami of the marinated cod.
Level 6, 555 Shanghai Street Cordis, Mong Kok; @cordishk
Ăn Chơi
Ăn Chơi is an electric microcosm of Vietnam, capturing the country’s vibrant energy. “Dining here is a warm and immersive experience, where guests can savour bold, authentic flavours in a vibey atmosphere,” chef-owner Lewis Dai shares. With his wife Kay, the pair repainted the grey walls of Mercer Street with fresh yellow paint, livening up the district not just with colour, but with Vietnamese heart and soul. Their commitment to traditional dishes is evident in the preparation of their own breads and fresh broth daily, as well as in their sourcing of high-quality ingredients directly from Vietnam and beloved local businesses.
Bearing a name that translates to “indulge” and “small snacks”, the restaurant earned a Bib Gourmand recognition just one year after its opening. “The journey has been both challenging and inspiring. From the beginning, we committed to staying true to the authenticity of Vietnamese cuisine, carefully sourcing ingredients and crafting recipes that honour Kay’s heritage,” Dai shares. Every day, they serve different freshly cooked noodles, and the Thursday offering is the classic yet underrepresented bún mắm. A beloved dish from Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, the dish’s foundation is its fermented Linh fish broth, which is simmered with pork bone, pineapple, lemongrass and other vegetables the night before service. The next morning, the team boils down the fermented fish with the broth for hours, resulting in a balanced umami concoction. The noodles are topped with proteins that represent the agriculture of the Mekong Delta, including shrimp, squid, fish fillet, and pork belly. Eggplants and bean sprouts are introduced for their earthiness and crunch. Lewis admits that the Linh fish bears a bold, pungent flavour that is “not for everyone”, but Lewis and Kay’s uncompromising commitment to culinary heritage is what makes Ăn Chơi a restaurant worth expanding your horizons for.
Shop A, 15, 17 Mercer St, Sheung Wan; @anchoi.hk
Roucou
Fromager Jeremy Evrard is disrupting the food and beverage scene in Hong Kong with a cheese bar and omakase that is, at its core, all about craft. Working with a three-decade-long friend and mentor, Evrard sources premium ingredients from a traditional organic cheese farm in Brittany. At Roucou, these non-pasteurised artisan cheeses are showcased in all forms: some melted, some grated, others grilled, baked, sliced, or turned into dessert, culminating in an “accessible” cheese bar menu that doesn’t overwhelm with cheesiness. Journey deeper into the restaurant and you’ll find the 8-seater omakase, which blends Japanese cuisine with cheese, as inspired by the 5 years Evrard spent in Japan with his family. After decades working in luxury hospitality, Evrard finally found the courage to open the concept he’s been thinking about for the past 10 years. “I’ve decided to do something for my family, for Hong Kong, for my happiness. If you are happy, everything around you turns to light,” Evrard expresses.
With Chef de Cuisine Guillas Stephane, Evrard created the melted cheese open sandwich that both Frenchmen enjoyed during their childhood. Flaky puff pastry forms the base, layered with silky fresh cream that is simply mixed with salt, pepper, and lemon. Imported from one of their trusted farmers, the cream is slightly acidic and slightly sweet, and is also used for Roucou’s homemade butter. As seasons change, fondant leeks and potatoes substitute for the original artichoke, paired with pickled onions and a smoked Morteau sausage from the Jura region in France. From the same region, the Comté cheese is melted with Saint Nectaire and poured all over the open sandwich. On his cooking philosophy, Evrard puts it simply, “Whatever you cook, make it good. Don’t make it fancy for the sake of being fancy. Don’t try too hard and go somewhere that you don’t understand.”
28 Aberdeen St, Central; @roucou.hk
Photography: Samantha Sin
Styling: Ella Wong
Editor
Karrie Lam
