Grown hidden from the sunlight in nutrient-rich soil, the white asparagus retains its milky white exterior and develops a plumper body than its green companions. Nicknamed “white gold” for its price and complexion, this prized vegetable boasts a delicately nutty flavour. May is one of the few months in a year when white asparagus is ready for harvest—how do these three chefs make the most of the season’s finest vegetable?
Ami
For Chef Nicholas Boutin, cooking is a delicate balance of respecting tradition and casser les codes, or daring to break the rules. Having grown up in the Poitou-Charentes region in France, the prized Loire Valley asparagus from the neighbouring region was the first and only asparagus he knew growing up and the one he still cooks with now. In the latest menu, the classic marriage of asparagus and egg blooms into a delicate ‘marguerite’ flower. Spooning into the dish, a luxurious stream of yellow yolk flows through asparagus ‘petals’, mixing its light and earthy notes with the silky rich yolk. Laying beneath, the marinated capers add a briny tang and the crunchy croutons cut an unexpected textural contrast. Sprinkled above the dish are soft orange zests that echo pollen flowing through Spring winds.
Alexandra House, Shop 302, 3rd Floor, 18 Chater Rd, Central ; @ami.hongkong
Épure
Chef Aven Lau’s Landes white asparagus dish was born out of an experimental spirit. “As a chef hailing from Singapore, a country with a vibrant food culture, I’ve cultivated an insatiable curiosity and openness to diverse culinary inspirations,” Chef Lau says about his culinary philosophy. Two pristine white asparagus spears hold a reservoir of pike roe kimizu, while potato croutons, watercress and herbs line the spears like spring foliage. The Landes white asparagus stands out with its remarkable sweetness and almost creamy texture. Poached in its rich bouillon, the spears retain their colour and flavour while contrasted by the velvety and acidic pike roe kimizu.
Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; @epurerestaurant
Lucciola Restaurant & Bar
At Lucciola Restaurant & Bar, the essence of Italian culinary heritage finds its way onto the plate. For over 40 years, white asparagus has been cultivated in Baraldo, northeastern Italy. At Lucciola, these prized spears are transformed into a light cacio e pepe pasta. “The idea behind this dish was to elevate the white asparagus while keeping it simple,” Francesco Gava, the Director of Food and Beverage at The Hari said. Cavatelli pasta shells are interwoven with sliced shoots of white asparagus, creating a visual interplay of butter yellow and white. Made from durum wheat, the curved cavatelli pasta retains its shape after cooking and offers a firmer bite. The sharpness of the Pecorino Romano cheese contrasts with the sweetness of the asparagus, creating a well-balanced cacophony of flavours. A medley of dainty handpicked fresh herbs and sprouts rounds off the dish with light herbaceous notes.
1/F, 330 Lockhart Rd, Wan Chai; @lucciola.hk
Photography: Samantha Sin
Styling: Ella Wong
Editor
Karrie Lam
