In recent years, China has become a hub of innovation for fashion design, with an influx of emerging designers and fashion labels making waves globally. Shanghai has solidified its position as one of the world’s leading fashion capitals, joining the ranks of New York, Paris, Milan, and London. The latest trend-–neo-Chinese fashion–sees designers seamlessly blending traditional Chinese aesthetics with modern techniques and designs.
Among these designers, homegrown fashion brand Labelhood has become a vital incubator for up-and-coming Chinese designers. What started as a boutique in 2011, has now evolved into a driving force at the forefront of Chinese fashion, showcasing new Chinese brands at Shanghai Fashion Week every season. For this issue, Vogue Hong Kong sat down with six Chinese fashion labels supported by Labelhood—AO Yes, Assignments, Raydots, WMWM, Yayi, Yirnatian— to discuss how each designer interprets and reimagines the concept of neo-Chinese fashion through their unique perspectives.
From left: on Yujie: dress, Assignments. On Yanxin: top, skirt and scarf, all Yayi. On Lixuan: tops, skirt and shorts, all WMWM. On Yiting: jacket and skirt, all Ao Yes. On Yanan: top, skirt and scarf, all Yirantian. On Kaidong: top and pants, all RayDots.
AO YES
Austin Wang & Yansong Liu
Describe your brand’s style and aesthetic in three words.
Modern, Contemporary, Eastern.
How would you define neo-Chinese fashion? And, as a Chinese designer and brand, how do you think Chinese elements should be incorporated into it?
Chinese style has taken on countless forms throughout history; we hope neo-Chinese fashion can serve as a reflection of the fashion landscape today. We also hope that by incorporating Chinese elements, we are not simplifying our history, but instead adapting it so that it can be worn everyday in a way that retains our spirit.
The theme of this Vogue Hong Kong issue is “Senses”. Could you share how your new SS25 designs connect to or are inspired by different senses?
The first sense we experience in fashion is sight, followed by touch—and it is through touch that the full vision of our clothing and our brand comes to life. We hope that every piece of clothing from AO Yes offers a sensory experience that resonates with our audience and encapsulates our vision.
How has Labelhood supported the development of your brand? What’s next?
Labelhood plays a very important role in the development process of independent fashion labels. They help with the launch and the sales of new lines every season. For AO Yes, this is crucial because we like to experiment and build upon our signature designs every season.
WMWM
Mushroom Song
Describe your brand’s style and aesthetic in three words.
Cool romanticism, artistically refined, paradoxical—it’s intellectual but also rebellious and playful.
How would you define neo-Chinese fashion? And, as a Chinese designer and brand, how do you think Chinese elements should be incorporated into it?
Neo-Chinese fashion is the modern expression of Eastern aesthetics. When I use Chinese elements in my designs, I focus on achieving a harmonious balance between tradition and modernity.
The theme of this Vogue Hong Kong issue is “Senses”. Could you share how your new SS25 designs connect to or are inspired by different senses?
The SS25 line is inspired by a summer yacht party. Starting with sight, looking at the colour palette, the white symbolises purity and freedom, while the black represents the calm and quiet depths of the ocean; the simple, clean beige tones evoke the soft, gentle texture of sand; and the navy stripes bring a nautical feel to the collection. The products themselves, including swimsuits, sailor dresses, and lace dresses are meant to remind its wearers of the endless adventure the sea has to offer. The delicate embroidery, shimmering knitwear, and satin gowns mimic the way light ripples on the surface on the sea.
How has Labelhood supported the development of your brand? What’s next?
Labelhood has provided us with a platform since the early days of conception to our launches every season. Their support extends to sales, where their collaborative approach fosters the exchange of creative ideas and energy. For the new season, we will be working with a vibrant and nuanced colour palette inspired by winter outdoor activities.
RAYDOTS
Daorui
Describe your brand’s style and aesthetic in three words.
Rational, deconstructed, minimalist.
How would you define neo-Chinese fashion? And, as a Chinese designer and brand, how do you think Chinese elements should be incorporated into it?
Different Chinese designers have different interpretations of neo-Chinese fashion. Some incorporate traditional elements through silhouettes, others bring an Eastern feel through fabric choices or by invoking Chinese aesthetics with colour. At Raydots, our design approach merges architectural tailoring, gender fluidity, and modern storytelling. By deconstructing traditional clothes like Zhongshan suits and military uniforms, we preserve their cultural essenece, while readjusting proportions, to create a unique look, giving these traditional clothes a new lease of life.
The theme of this Vogue Hong Kong issue is “Senses”. Could you share how your new SS25 designs connect to or are inspired by different senses?
The SS25 collection is inspired by the photography of Peter Hujar—think nude tones, soft washes, and minimalist cuts that create an ethereal aesthetic and dissolve gender boundaries. A good example of this is the Zhongshan suit that we’ve reimagined with sheer organza fabric. Beyond its visual appeal, the collection uses its gender fluidity and contemporary narrative to challenge perceptions of gender, identity, and culture. Every piece is not only a sensory experience, but a vehicle for thought and introspection.
How has Labelhood supported the development of your brand? What’s next?
Labelhood gave us a platform and through fashion week shows, showrooms, and retail partnerships, we’ve been able to grow our clientele and find our target audience without compromising on our creative vision. More importantly, Labelhood has created a community for neo-Chinese fashion designers; every fashion week feels like a big gathering where we get to exchange ideas and work with other designers and artists who share the same interests as us.
Using the AW24 and SS25 as a foundation, AW25 will take our exploration of gender fluidity even further. We’ve chosen a lot of different fabrics, to breathe fresh life into the collection, while staying true to our signature linear silhouette.
YIRANTIAN
Guo Yirantian
Describe your brand’s style and aesthetic in three words.
Redefined femininity, strong, intellectual.
How would you define neo-Chinese fashion? And, as a Chinese designer and brand, how do you think Chinese elements should be incorporated into it?
Neo-Chinese fashion is not a revival of classic Chinese fashion, but a reinvention that pays homage to tradition. The incorporation of Chinese elements should not be a mere replication of the past. Instead, it requires extracting the essence of these elements, simplifying them, and seamlessly integrating them with contemporary design concepts and aesthetics.
The theme of this Vogue Hong Kong issue is “Senses”. Could you share how your new SS25 designs connect to or are inspired by different senses?
The SS25 collection’s theme is “Clap! Clap!’. This season was opened by dancers; each moved with the strength and sensuality of women. The rhythmic clapping echoed confidence and left a crisp, effortless impression. Finger castanets mimicked raindrops, which inspired uneven polka dot patterns on the fabrics. Visually, the design and fabrics were light and elegant, and therefore able to move with ease with the dancer’s bodies. The tassels and ruffles on the skirts complimented each other and weight of the fabric meant it could flow through the air as the dancers jumped.
How has Labelhood supported the development of your brand? What’s next?
Every step of Yirantian’s development process has been supported by Labelhood, from fashion week runway shows and retail opportunities to a collaboration with Labelhood that culminated in the opening of our first flagship store. For the upcoming AW25 collection, we will continue to explore the multifaceted identity of the urban woman, expanding our range of products to present a more complete vision of our brand.
YAYI
Yayi Chen
Describe your brand’s style and aesthetic in three words.
Dramatic, poetic, multicultural.
How would you define neo-Chinese fashion? And, as a Chinese designer and brand, how do you think Chinese elements should be incorporated into it?
Yayi is all about multiculturalism. We are interested in the similarities and differences between different cultures and their histories, multiculturalism exists on different spectrums and is a part of every idea and perspective. For me, this means often revisiting my own past and personal experiences. I grew up in a traditional southern Chinese household in Madrid. Like many other first and second generation immigrants in Europe in the 90s, I spent a lot of my childhood in a Chinese restaurant where my parents worked. So in my designs, I often use flower motifs from traditional qipaos and Chinese ink paintings, as well as elements from the restaurant decor. These all come from my family’s photo albums.
Another way I incorporate Chinese elements is through craftsmanship. For example in the SS25 collection “Silent Threads”, we used traditional materials like rice paper and Chinese paper art, both steeped in centuries of history. We crafted a corset that balances softness and strength by sculpting the female body with rice paper like armour and weaving metal wires into organic, fluid forms.
The theme of this Vogue Hong Kong issue is “Senses”. Could you share how your new SS25 designs connect to or are inspired by different senses?
The SS25 collection “Silent Threads” is deeply inspired by the senses of touch and sight. The legend goes that the lacemakers of the 15th century relied on their sight and touch to create the most intricate lace patterns. However, as their skills and technique improve, their sight would worsen, with many losing their sight at a very young age. This season’s flowers, ribbons, and tassels represent eternal labour and the sacrifice it takes to create art.
How has Labelhood supported the development of your brand? What’s next?
We have been working with Labelhood for two years, showcasing our collections in the LAB Showroom for the past four seasons. These types of collaborations have allowed us to enter the Chinese market and provided the essential support and resources that a young brand like us require. We’ve also received a lot of new collaboration opportunities, including with Nike and Visa, which have accelerated our growth into an established brand by allowing us to create outside of the traditional framework of seasonal collections. Next season, we will be exploring the relationship between wrinkles, folds, layers, and the female body, inspired by the traditional clothing of the women in the Navarre region of Spain and the work of artist Mariano Fortuny, known for his innovative use of fine pleats.
ASSIGNMENTS
Rouyi Hou
Describe your brand’s style and aesthetic in three words.
Poetic elegance, artistic sensibility, romantic narrative.
How would you define neo-Chinese fashion? And, as a Chinese designer and brand, how do you think Chinese elements should be incorporated into it?
Neo-Chinese fashion is not just a relationship, but a dialogue, between modernity and tradition. It is not the simple revival of previous designs, but a new form of visual expression and functional integration. As a Chinese designer, I think the incorporation of Chinese elements in our designs should be organic. The most important part of the process is to capture the soul of our culture, whether it be through unique colours, cuts, or textures. This however, does not mean crudely borrowing symbols, patterns and designs. Design must not only respect history, but breathe new life and meaning into it.
The theme of this Vogue Hong Kong issue is “Senses”. Could you share how your new SS25 designs connect to or are inspired by different senses?
Touch is at the heart of the SS25 collection. The softness and texture of our materials highlight the intimate connection between clothes and skin. This season, we used the brand’s signature hand-pleated cotton, smoked tulle, and elastic silk crepe de chine—fabrics each with their own characteristic, but layered well together to the touch. These fabrics create a layered, refined tactile experience, allowing wearers to naturally connect with their clothes. This interaction not only enhances the sense of touch but also embodies the balance of “gentleness and strength” in every detail, fostering a unique dialogue between the clothing and the wearer.
How has Labelhood supported the development of your brand? What’s next?
Labelhood has been our partner since our conception—from understanding and supporting my design ideas, to giving us industry exposure, to bringing us to a wider audience, to influencing markets at home and abroad—all while still allowing us to maintain our creative spirit. In terms of our upcoming AW25 collection, we will continue to explore and incorporate contemporary backgrounds, cultural collisions, and the independent female spirit. The SS25 collection has already opened up a discussion on freedom and independence, the AW25 collection will continue to delve into the complexity of women’s emotions and identities.
Translated by Natasha Yao
Photography: Robert Nilsson
Styling: Kyle Tang
Models: Ma Kaidong & Wei Yiting @ Focus Management, Zeng Lixuan @ Sparkling Talents, Wan Yanan @ CB Models, Ke Yujie @ Mostar Models, Cao Yasin @ Scouted by Bobo
Casting Director: Marina Fairfax
Producer: Raven Lam @ Gorgeous Ladies Production
Makeup Artist: Zhanen He
Hair Stylist: Lyn
Photography Assistant: Hao
Styling Assistant: Coci
Production Assistant: Yitong
Special thanks to Labelhood
Editor
Kyle Tang
