Urban jungle Mong Kok strikes the perfect balance between the quaint and contemporary. With a vast array of global eateries and seemingly endless stretches of shopping streets, you’ll be spending many a day out in Mong Kok before you know it — here’s a roundup of the neighbourhood’s best destinations.
EAT & DRINK
Twins Liangpi
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With two consecutive years of Michelin Bib Gourmand accolades under its belt, Twins Liangpi is the go-to spot for liangpi, the iconic street food of China’s northwestern regions. Sink your teeth into the cold noodles’ stretchy, chewy goodness with a lashing of the owners’ signature handmade chilli oils. Enjoy your noodles Chongqing-style, with nutty dan dan sauce, or accompanied by Twins’ selection of toppings from bites of sakura shrimp to decadent salted pork belly. Complete the meal with their traditional appetisers such as the Mouth-Watering Chicken, or if you’re looking for something hotter, their Numbing and Spicy variant.
G/F, 99 Hak Po Street, Mong Kok, @twinsliangpiltd
Kam Wah Cafe
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Award-winning cha chaan teng diner Kam Wah Cafe doubles as a bakery, serving up signatures such as their delectable egg tarts and thick ‘pineapple’ buns with flaky crusts reminiscent of the fruit. These come in boloyau style – with a hunk of butter between the bun, or with satay beef or char siu. Like most cha chaan tengs, Kam Wah is known for its quick service and also offers a variety of rice and noodle dishes, along with a daily rotation of lunch sets.
G/F, 47 Bute Street, Mong Kok, @kamwahcafe
Ming Court
Cordis Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Ming Court promises an unforgettable culinary outing. Step into the luxurious, artsy interior where porcelain antiques meet sleek modern hues, then treat your tastebuds to the dim sum menu. Classic signatures include Ming Court’s ‘Wellness Dumpling Trio’ – a charming set of porcini, shrimp and scallop delights, and their decadently packed bean curd wrap of abalone, fish maw, chicken and shiitake. For a touch of glamour, try the layered silk tofu topped with gold leaf and black truffle, or the honey-barbequed supreme pork loin – a Cantonese eatery must-have.
Level 6, Cordis, Hong Kong, 555 Shanghai St, Mong Kok, cordishotels.com
The Ale Project
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Beer fans will be in heaven at The Ale Project, the first taproom of its kind in Kowloon. Dive into a selection of reinvented classics alongside long-time favourites – from pale to wild ales and the Young Master Brewery’s very own Hong Kong Black, to a tangy Mango Gose and a creamy Triple Chocolate Milk Stout. Meanwhile, munch on some of their bar bites, including cajun wings, a mala potato salad, and pastas and burgers galore. With a well-lit, warm and casual atmosphere, The Ale Project promises a great night out.
19 Hak Po Street, Mong Kok, @thealeproject
Begin Coffee
This cafe is on the rooftop of an old tong lau. Take a side lift down an alley to find yourself transported back to the 60s. Decorated with old film cameras, stained mirrors, and plenty of plants, it provides a good break from the hustle and bustle of the area. They serve coffee, teas, and chocolate, as well as Japanese brunch food for more sustenance.
SHOP, SEE & DO
618 Shanghai Street
Originally revitalised as part of a project reconstructing fourteen historic tong lau buildings on Shanghai Street, this glass-framed complex is home to six floors’ worth of lifestyle stores and eateries. On the different levels, you’ll find vintage and modern apparel, handmade souvenirs, ceramics, flowers and more. Make sure to visit the rooftop cafe Poach, which boasts a homely urban interior by day and a casual garden vibe at night, serving a variety of Chinese-Japanese inspired menu items.
618 Shanghai Street, Mong Kok, Kowloon, @618.shanghaistreet
Ladies’ Market
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Covering a staggering kilometre, the Ladies’ Market on Tung Choi Street is one of Hong Kong’s most well-known – and busy – shopping spots for locals and tourists alike. It’s a hub for bargains on a huge selection of items, including pop culture tees, traditional New Year wear, luggage tags, and even souvenir replicas of Hong Kong street signs.
Tung Choi Street
Goldfish Street
Looking for rare exotic fish, walk north of the Ladies’ Market to find yourself on a street lined with walls of beautiful, multicoloured fish. It makes for quite the spectacle, even if you’re not going to buy a new pet. Shops also sell aquariums and all the necessary supplies to get you started. Do be warned that these shops often prohibit photography to ease foot traffic and to avoid scaring the fish.
Tung Choi Street, north of Bute Street
Sneakers Street
Get your sports fix at Mong Kok’s famous Sneakers Street: although the shops mostly cater to basketballers and runners, there’s no shortage of items to browse. Fashionistas will love the myriad shoe styles, including limited editions and hidden gems, whilst sport lovers will enjoy browsing the range of apparel – these are all on offer at relatively low prices.
Fa Yuen Street, Mong Kok
CTMA Centre
If you’re wanting to beat the heat and do some shopping, look no further than the CTMA Centre. There’s something for everyone here: browse the traditional Hong Kong-style ‘checker’ shops selling bits and bobs from jewellery to plushies and party supplies, or take your pick from apparel stores’ Y2K pieces. CTMA Centre’s highlight is definitely the Toy Mart – you’ll find the latest in anime and action hero shows here, alongside designer boutiques: Superman Toys greets shoppers with an impressive storefront display of boxed collectible creatures.
1 Sai Yeung Choi Street South, Mong Kok
Argyle Centre
Packed with over two hundred stalls and small shops, multi-storey shopping arcade Argyle Centre marks the hottest spot for everything streetwear. You’ll have to push through a few crowds, but the variety of Korean-inspired Y2K fashion, shoes for every occasion and accessories for every aesthetic will be worth it. Food stalls are also scattered throughout the floors, dishing up sushi, chilled noodles and fried snacks.
688 Nathan Road, Mong Kok
Showa
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A must-go for photography enthusiasts, Showa stocks the hottest in camera technology. Its storefront boasts an impressive display – a full wall of retro cameras – and inside, you’ll find items from every type of film imaginable to classic Polaroids. Browse their selection of accessories, such as bags, straps and cases; alternatively, pick out a brightly coloured, lightweight film camera to capture memories on days out.
3/F, 66-68 Sai Yeung Choi Street South, Mong Kok; @showa_f
Chase the Neon Lights
Visiting Mong Kok late at night is not just for experiencing the hustle and bustle of the night markets. Be sure to look up to spot Hong Kong’s dying neon lights. There are a few on Tung Choi Street by the intersection of Mong Kok Road, as well as some on the corner of Bute Street and Sai Yeung Choi Street South. Continue down to Changsha street to find 金麗官 which has long been a popular spot for photographers. If these are still not enough, head south into Yau Ma Tei to find more.
Trendy Zone
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Deck yourself out in the latest streetwear at Trendy Zone, with everything from chunky rings and sports watches to sneakers and denim. For a blast to the past, visit Retrostone HK on the basement level and discover a plethora of vintage pieces, including officially licensed band merchandise and hand-painted fabrics. The arcade-style shopping mall is also home to toys and gifts, such as Hong Kong’s souvenir-worthy lucky cats.
580 Nathan Road, Mong Kok
Shui Yuet Temple
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Originally built in 1884 and relocated to its current Shan Tung Street site in the early 20th century, Shui Yuet Temple is a historic landmark situated in the heart of the bustling district – it’s a hidden gem nestled between college campus buildings. Traditionally a religious destination devoted to the worship of deities and heroes, it’s dimly lit and adorned with lanterns, whilst the exterior boasts striking red and green hues, making it easily identifiable.
90 Shan Tung Street, Mong Kok; temples.tungwahcsd.org
Editor
Natasha Yao, Wing Hei WooCredit
Lead image: Fraser Hall via Getty Images
